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Chanel’s President Of Fashion On The House’s Latest Exhibition And Life After Karl

Sitting down with Chanel’s President of Fashion, Bruno Pavlovsky, only a matter of months after the passing of the house’s
legendary creative director 
Karl Lagerfeld and the subsequent appointment of his second-in-command
Virginie Viard, could well be a slightly fraught affair. After all, this is one
of the world’s most revered – and lucrative – luxury brands, and it has just
lost the man who ensured its sustained success throughout his over 30-year
reign. In fact, so profound has his impact been on the brand that today
Lagerfeld’s name is almost as interwoven with the Chanel narrative as that of
Coco herself. But in the sticky Shanghai heat, amidst the opening celebrations
surrounding the latest and largest iteration of Chanel’s travelling 
Mademoiselle Privé exhibition,
Pavlovsky is resolutely calm. “Nobody is eternal,” he smiles. “The brand is
stronger than that.”
The 6000 square feet that comprise Mademoiselle Privé are, in manyways, testament to the fact. “If you understand Mademoiselle Privé, you understand
the brand,” explains Pavlovsky. “We are not talking about product – we are
talking about Mademoiselle Chanel: her posture, her vision.” An enormous
exploration of the house’s three core pillars – haute couture, high jewellery
and fragrance – it showcases the profound confidence of a brand whose codes are
set in stone. Where Karl Lagerfeld excelled was in modernising them: in
enlisting the couture ateliers to turn their hand to fabrics like concrete or
neoprene; in dressing his cool girl muses in astonishing diamonds; in
maintaining the legendary renown of Chanel No. 5. If 
CocoChanelestablished what is now the world’s longest-standing
couturier, then Karl was responsible for ensuring she retained contemporary
relevance.
The most remarkable aspect of the exhibition is the couturetableaux installed behind the door of Shanghai’s very own 31 Rue Cambon: 33silhouettes taken from six couture collections, from Spring/Summer 2013 to Autumn/Winter2018. But even more impressive than the hundreds, sometimes thousands, of hours
of labour that go into each of the looks – the extraordinary laminated lace,
the hand-painted pencil shavings that appear as wooden ruffles, the laser-cut
tweed suits that technically reinvented Chanel’s most renowned designs – is the
idea that each has an impact that reverberates beyond the lucky few who can
afford them.
While the garments that comprise Chanel couture might only be
acquired by the most privileged elite, their astonishing creation significantly
informs the rest of the house – both in terms of luxury branding and technical
finesse. Lagerfeld was famously obsessed with both the present and the future –
after all, as he told 
Suzy Menkes for Vogue before his passing, “Fashion is about change – and I
like change. I do it like I breathe.” The innovation he introduced to
couture and ready-to-wear was first explored through the laboratories staffed
by his petits mains, who would develop never-before-used fabrics and techniques
to add to their repertoire: “Haute couture is a kind of research and
development,” explains Pavlovsky.

When, in 1997, the Chanel subsidiary Paraffection was set up to
purchase 
Paris’s couture ateliers in order to sustain their craftsmanship,
it ensured the safety of that strategy: a set of dying industries were
revitalised anew, powered by the strength of Chanel financing (and the apparent
equity of the deal: there’s no monopoly on their expertise, and every métier is
permitted to work for other houses). When last year, for the first time in its
118-year history, Chanel released its figures, they proved the success of that
mechanism: fashion, rather than fragrance or beauty, is what drives the
business (those figures also indicated that the company’s growth is
significantly indebted to the Asian market). “Everything we’re doing at Chanel
is [preparing] for the next 20 years,” says Pavlovsky of the initial decision
to invest in the company. Two decades on and those ateliers “are the key to our
product,” says Pavlovsky. “We need to have that know-how.”
Inviting the public to immerse themselves in that savoir-faire,
then, is a smart marketing move: you’d be hard pressed not to wander among some
of these looks and become entirely convinced by the strength of the Chanel
message: phenomenal clothing made with exquisite elegance. Then, there’s the
high jewellery: Chanel’s equivalent of diamond-encrusted couture. On show are
recreations of Coco’s 1932 designs, alongside the sort of contemporary pieces
that ought require an army of security: a 307 carat rutilated quartz mounted on
a 32.98 carat diamond; a golden plastron starring a 18-carat gold plastron
starring a 6.52-carat stone. Presented against a backdrop of lacquered screens
created by Chinese artist Wu Guanzhen, and amidst a gallery of Karl Lagerfeld’s
muses wearing his understanding of Coco’s codes, it makes for arresting impact.

“We have a lot of fans here in China,” reflects Pavlovsky. “And
need to give them the opportunity to better understand what Mademoiselle
Chanel, and what the Chanel of today, is about… What you see here is the future
of the brand, because these pillars will continue to incarnate what is so
special, what is unique at Chanel.” During a time when speculation surrounding
the brand’s future is, understandably, at an all-time high, saturating one of
their most important markets in the luxuriant essence of its allure makes
perfectly-timed sense. From the array of gowns to the displays of diamonds; the
walls of Chanel No. 5 to the cinema-scale screening sessions of Lagerfeld’s
films, you can imagine the fans will find plenty to sate them.
But perhaps more importantly, Shanghai’s Madmoiselle Privé is a reminderthat Chanel’s codes, and the infrastructure that has been built around them,ought long survive a single designer. “The job done by Karl over the past ten
years was in preparation for the next step,” says Bruno. “What you see here is
the future of the brand, because these pillars will continue to incarnate what
is so special, what is unique at Chanel […] Virginie is the same but she is
different. She will probably bring some femininity to the Chanel look, but it
will stay the Chanel look. We are enthusiastic for the future. Let’s see the
Cruise collection in two weeks…” We’ll be waiting.

A week with the Samsung Galaxy Fold

I will say this about the Galaxy Fold, however: it hasbeen a hell of a conversation piece. I’ve had a LOT of dialogues with strangers
since I started using it as my day-to-day. And let’s be honest, that’s a big
part of being an early adopter.
The Galaxy Fold is also the most polarizingdevice I can recall to have used. Everyone who sees the thing wants to play
with it, but reaction has been very mixed. I was at a FedEx store the other day
and ended up handing it off to two of the four employees during the five
minutes I was waiting to get a package.
Interestingly, they all seemed to be awareof the screen issues. Foldables have captured the public imagination like few
recent consumer electronics. That’s going to be a mixed bag for Samsung. On the
upside, it means a larger potential user base. On the downside, more people are
looking on as the company figures out what to do with a malfunctioning product.
On the whole, people at the FedEx store and
the various TSA/airline employees I’ve interacted with have been impressed by
the product. One said it was smaller than she expected, which took me back a
bit, after so many have commented on how bulky it is. I suppose she was
expecting me to unfold an iPad.
I’ve fallen somewhere between the two. The
fold is undoubtedly an impressive bit of engineering when it’s working. For
now, it seems our early suspicions that the device wasn’t ready for prime time
appear to have been on the mark, as the company has shifted from “a limited
number of early Galaxy Fold samples” to pushing back the launch indefinitely.
It opens up the field to a number of otheralready announced foldable devices (assuming they don’t experience similarproblems). Of course, Samsung’s product lines, it should be noted, have bounced
back from worse.
Anyway, this marks the end of my daily
notes. I still plan to have a review this week, in spite of, well, everything.

Tim Cook wants you to put down your iPhone

 Tim Cook thinks people should get off theiriPhones and decrease their engagement with apps. The Apple CEO, speaking at
the TIME 100 Summit today, was discussing the addictive nature of our mobile
devices and Apple’s role in the matter when he made these comments. He said the
company hadn’t intended for people to be constantly using their iPhones, and
noted he himself has silenced his push notifications in recent months.

It’s certainly an interesting claim, given
that Apple designed a platform that allowed app developers to constantly ping
their users with the most inane notifications — from getting a new follower on
a social app to a sale in a shopping app to a new level added to a game and so
much more.
The very idea behind the notificationplatform, opt-in as it may be, is that developers should actively — and in real
time — try to capture users’ attention and redirect them back to their apps.
An app notification platform could have
instead been crafted to allow app developers to notify users in batches, at
designed intervals within users’ control. For example, users could have
specified that every day at noon they’d like to check in on the latest from
their apps.

 Or, in building out the iOS App Store,Apple could have implemented a “news feed” of sorts — a dedicated channelwherein users could opt to check in on all the latest news from their installedapps.

Or perhaps Apple could have structured a
notification platform that would have allowed users to pick between different
classes of notifications. Urgent messages — like alerts about a security breach
— could have been a top-level tier; while general information could have been
sent as a different type of notification. Users could have selected which types
of alerts they wanted, depending on how important the app was to them.
But the fact of the matter is that Apple’s
notification platform was built with the idea of increasing engagement in mind.
It’s disingenuous to say it was not.
At the very least, Apple could admit that
it was a different era back then, and didn’t realize the potential damage to
our collective psyche that a continually buzzing iPhone would cause. It could
point out how it’s now working to fix this problem by putting users back in
control, and how it plans to do more in the future.
Instead, it created a situation where
users had to turn to the only defense left
to them: switching off pushnotifications entirely. Today, when users install new apps they
often say “No” to push notifications. And with Apple’s new tools to control
notifications, users are now actively triaging which apps can get in touch.
In fact, that’s what Tim Cook says he
did, too.
“If you guys aren’t doing this — if you
have an iPhone and you’re not doing it, I would encourage you to really do this
— monitor these [push notifications],” the CEO suggested to the audience.
“What it has done for me personally is I’ve
gone in and gutted the number of notifications,” Cook said. “Because I asked
myself: ‘Do I really need to be getting thousands of notifications a day?’ It’s
not something that is adding value to my life, or is making me a better person.
And so I went in and chopped that.”
YepEven
Apple’s CEO is done with all the spam and noise from iPhone apps.
The comment, of course, was supposed to be
a veiled reference to the addictive nature of some
apps
 — social media apps in particular, and especially
Facebook. Today, Apple throws barbs atFacebook any time it can, now that the company has fallen out of
public favor due to its ongoing data privacy violations and constantscandals.
But a more truthful telling of the iPhone’s
past would recall that Facebook’s app — and all its many notifications — was
originally a big selling point for Apple’s mobile device.
When the App Store first launched in 2008, Facebook proudlysat in the top row in a featured position. It was heavily promoted
to users because it was a prime example of the iPhone’s utility: here was this
popular social network you could now get to right from your phone. Amazing! 

The fact that Facebook — and every otherapp — later leveraged the iOS push notification platform to better its own
business without regard to how that would impact users isn’t entirely app
developers’ collective fault. The notification platform itself had left the
door wide open for that sort of psychological abuse to occur, simply because of
its lack of user-configured, user-friendly controls.
Above: The App Store at launch, via The NYT
A decade after the App Store launched,
Apple finally started to dial back on the free-for-all on user attention.
It announced its suite of digital wellness tools at WWDC2018, which included Screen Time (a dashboard for tracking and
limiting usage); increased parental controls; and finally a way to silence the
barrage of notifications, without having to dig around in iOS Settings.
Now Tim Cook wants to have us believe that
Apple had never wanted to cause any of
this addiction and distraction — despite having created the very platform that
made it all possible in the first place, which in turn, helped sell devices.

Isn’t it telling that the exec has had tosilence his own iPhone using these new tools? Isn’t that something of an
admission of culpability here?
Every time you pick up your phone, it
means you’re taking your eyes off whoever you’re dealing with, are talking
with, right?,” Cook continued. “And if you’re looking at your phone more than
you’re looking at somebody else’s eyes, you’re doing the wrong thing,” he said.
“We want to educate people on what they’re doing. This thing will improve
through time, just like everything else that we do. We’ll innovate there as we
do in other areas.”
Except, of course, for those 10 years when
it was.

Apple CEO Tim Cook says FBI’s 2016 case about San Bernadino shooter’s locked iPhone was ‘very rigged’

·        
Cook said that the FBI acted in a “very
dishonest manner” and that the case was “very rigged.”



Apple CEO Tim Cook said it’s unfortunate the FBI’s
case to force the company to provide data from a terrorist’s iPhone in 2016
didn’t go to trial because that way the public could have seen the truth. 

Speaking on Tuesday at a Time Magazine conference in New York,
Cook was referring to the case of the San Bernadino shooter, Syed Farook, who
killed 14 people and injured 22 others at the Inland Regional Center.
Apple publicly opposed the FBI when it asked for access to data Farook’s work
phone, saying that what law enforcement was requesting would be a “master key”
capable of opening millions of iPhones
The case was dropped after the Department of Justice was able to
access the iPhone days before an expected trial. The company or person who was
eventually able to crack the iPhone’s security has not been made public.
“Now, after the inspector general reports have come out, our worst
fears have been confirmed — that it was a very rigged case to begin with,” Cook
said on Tuesday. “So I think this was not the government’s finest hour. I have
personally never seen the government apparatus move against a company like it
did here in a very dishonest manner.”
The government report that Cookreferenced includes passages that suggest some departments
within the FBI were close to gaining the ability to crack the iPhone 5C used by
Farook at the time of the Apple case but, due to miscommunication, those
capabilities were never mentioned in the legal battle with Apple.
FBI leaders worry that encryption technologies from tech companies
could enable criminals to delete or scramble evidence on their phones or
computers, putting the information out of the reach of law enforcement
investigators.
Officials refer to it as the “going dark ” issue.
It’s reached a stalemate in recent years as strong encryption features have
been built into products from Apple, Google, Facebook, Microsoft and other big
tech companies.
Last year, Cook said that Apple would fight the FBI again if
the iPhone case happened a second time. On Tuesday, Cook also called for government regulations on privacy.

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